Mulsum: the Symbol of Endless Desire
Seoul, Republic of Korea
2024, Senior, Creative Writing
As I hear the rhythmic waves echo and feel the salty sea breeze pass through my weathered hair, I know I am ready to start today’s journey. I wipe my swimming goggles with a piece of mugwort, take a deep breath, and plunge into the turquoise ocean—my beautiful, sacred Jeju ocean—as deep as 10 meters under sea level. I see vibrant coral reefs and Hijiki swaying gently with water movement. If I uncover the thick layers of Hijiki, the conches and abalones hidden behind the layers show their faces. I collect some of those shy creatures while shaking off the brushy seaweed that wraps around my legs—then, gasp. “Be careful not to be greedy,” I say to myself. I breathe in and out, taking the goggles off with a massive dump of Hijiki in my hands.
“Ms. Kim, are you ready? Quick, we’ve got a long day ahead,” called Park, the second oldest Haenyeo in our small town on the island of Jeju. “Coming,” I replied. “Will we be able to catch any Hijiki longer than a meter today?” Park’s response was a stark reminder of the changes we’ve witnessed. “You know we haven’t seen them since 10 years ago” (Yi et al., 2021). With a heavy heart, I wiped my swimming goggles with a piece of mugwort and took a deep breath. The journey remained the same, but the ocean, my beautiful, beautiful ocean, had changed.
I can’t forget the scene: gray, stony reefs as far as the eye can see. The conches are no longer timid; they roam around the rocky pillars, exposed without the protective covering of long seaweed branches and Hijiki. Amidst the monochrome, some vibrant tropical fish catch the eye, yet these elegant creatures were absent a decade ago. These new exotic species from the warm Pacific Ocean have displaced Jeju’s native inhabitants, completely transforming the ocean floor. The significant decline in seaweed, Hijiki, abalones, and other indigenous creatures is evidence of this change (Guha, 2022). The Haenyeos can perceive it more clearly than anyone else. We not only harvest but also monitor and maintain the marine ecosystem. We are the primary indicators of the ocean’s condition, where we gather and live; we are the sea’s closest friends and family. And we, the Haenyeos, witness the slow demise of the Jeju Ocean (Hatfield and Hong, 2019). The once vibrant and lively Jeju Ocean is fading into history. That day, we were unaware of the exact cause.
I vividly recall the day a researcher from the National Institute of Fisheries Science visited our town. He explained that the rising ocean temperature, attributed to global warming, has caused significant changes. The ocean’s internal heat has increased, with the water temperature rising from about 10 zettajoules in 1960 to 360 zettajoules in 2023, marking the highest ocean temperature ever recorded. This increase is due to the ocean absorbing 90% of the heat trapped by greenhouse gases in recent decades. The warmer waters have introduced new subtropical species into the Jeju ocean, displacing native creatures and altering the seafloor habitat. This process has been termed “ocean desertification” (European Environment Agency, 2024). Global warming is the primary cause of these changes in the Jeju Ocean, jeopardizing the native species and the traditional Haenyeo way of life.
I can recall the day I learned the art of Muljil from my grandmother, our town’s oldest and most renowned Haenyeo. My mother, aunts, and friends are all part of this community, passed down through generations. When I caught my first abalone in the sea, my grandmother embraced me and said, ‘Now, you are part of our community’s next generation, sweetheart. Please continue our beautiful journey and pass it on to your children.’ She always emphasized that Haenyeos are crucial for the health and welfare of Jeju Island. For centuries, we have provided traditional food sources to local communities and become a secure base for the people in the town. Today, we also attract tourists to Jeju, allowing them to experience the Haenyeo culture and try out Muljil in a safe environment. However, despite their fascination with our practices, many visitors may need to be made aware of the risks that are faced by the Haenyeos (Hatfield and Hong, 2019).
There are approximately 4000 Haenyeos on Jeju Island and other small islands near Korea. However, out of the 4000 Haenyeos, only thirty are from the new generation who have come to learn the actual job (Kang, 2023). This small number suggests that we may be the last generation of the Haenyeo society. It’s not surprising considering that the job is becoming increasingly dangerous with little reward, making it unattractive to young people. This decline in the number of Haenyeos could significantly impact the cultural welfare of the communities in Jeju and mainland Korea, as well as the country’s economic health (Hatfield and Hong, 2019).
The Haenyeos have established strict sustainability practices to support the health and sustainability of oceanic natural resources. These rules are well documented and strictly enforced, with a placard in the Haenyeo Museum displaying them prominently (Hatfield and Hong, 2019).
One, Jeju Haenyeos regulate the breeding of marine resources for each fishing village society.
Two, to guarantee their sustainable income, they have specific regulations on harvest.
Three, if any Haenyeo violate the regulation, the entire village is prohibited from diving into the sea (Haenyeo Museum, 2014).
These efforts have allowed us to protect our environment and continue our long-standing collection and gathering practices. We are also working to mitigate the effects of global warming on our community. Without the Haenyeos, these practices would not be upheld, and the value and vitality of the Jeju Ocean would be at risk. We are dedicated to protecting our oceans from the threats of climate change, and we are grateful for the support we have received from our allies.
Young researchers have come to the island, aiming to help recover the damaged sea ecosystem. They have been planting new seaweed to absorb carbon dioxide from the water and protect small sea creatures like conches. They also aim to remove the invasive sea urchins that eat up marine plants (Yi et al., 2021).
And, most importantly, the young Haenyeos.
“Halmoni, stop catching flies there alone! Come see! The ocean looks so pretty in this camera, right?” One of the newest Haenyeos who came into the town—determined to learn the Haenyeo practices—pushed a small camera in front of my eyes. The beautiful conches and seaweed making a swirl inside the emerald sway of water—yes, it is beautiful—I said, startled. When was the last time I truly appreciated the beautiful Jeju ocean?
“I am planning to make a YouTube channel uploading videos about the Haenyeo practices and the species we collect in Jeju ocean. Halmoni, don’t forget to click ‘like’ on the video, so that more people can watch it. I think this will help increase the awareness of global warming. Who would want to see the beautiful Jeju ocean losing its light? We are the only ones who can do it—we are Haenyeos, the daughters of the ocean.”
The primary principle in Muljil is to be aware of Mulsum, which means breathing underwater. Haenyeos can stay in the sea during Muljil without equipment by breathing. Each person has different limits in holding their breath. However, we are not always free from the desire to go beyond our breath to have more and faster than others. This ‘greed’ makes us forget our limitations and traps us in the sea. When you cannot control that desire and go beyond your breath, the breath you ‘eat’ is the Mulsum. Therefore, Mulsum symbolizes uncontrolled desire, which Haenyeos are most afraid of. Thus, the first thing seniors warn about while teaching Muljil is to be careful of Mulsum. They add, “Don’t be greedy; once you get greedy and exceed your limit, the sea can swallow you, but if you control your greed, the sea will give you everything like a godmother” (Lee, 2015).
The ocean gave us everything—until our greed controlled us by burning nearly 500 exajoules of fossil fuel each year (Ritchie and Rosado, 2017). Now, it is time for us to beware of the Mulsum—the greed that eventually leads to death.
Works Cited
European Environment Agency. “Oxygen Concentrations in Europe’s Coastal and Marine Waters.” European Environment Agency’s Home Page, 13 May 2024, www.eea.europa.eu/en/analysis/indicators/oxygen-concentrations-in-coastal-and.
Guha, Nayanika. “Climate Change Is Threatening the Livelihoods of Korea’s Women Free-Divers.” Women’s Media Center, 26 Jan. 2022, womensmediacenter.com/climate/climate-change-is-threatening-the-livelihoods-of-koreas-women-free-divers.
Hatfield, Samantha Chisholm, and Sun-Kee Hong. Journal of Marine and Island Cultures, 1 June 2019, jmic.online/issues/v8n1/1/.
Kang, Dongsam. “‘I Want to Do Muljil’… 180 People Became Haenyeo in the Last 5 Years.” Seoul News, Seoul News, 23 Feb. 2023, www.seoul.co.kr/news/society/accident/2023/02/23/20230223500079.
Lee, Gilwoo. “6 Years to Realize the Meaning of ‘Mulsum’: The Forbidden Words of the Haenyeo.” Hankyoreh, 31 May 2015, www.hani.co.kr/arti/society/society_general/693600.html.
“Ocean Heat Content.” NASA, NASA, 28 Feb. 2024, climate.nasa.gov/vital-signs/ocean-warming/?intent=121.
Ritchie, Hannah, et al. “Fossil Fuels.” Our World in Data, 5 Jan. 2024, ourworldindata.org/fossil-fuels.
Yi, Hyun Young, et al. “Wider Image for South Korea’s Youngest ‘Sea Women’, Warming Seas Mean Smaller Catches | Reuters.” Reuters, 19 Apr. 2021, www.reuters.com/business/environment/wider-image-south-koreas-youngest-sea-women-warming-seas-mean-smaller-catches-2021-04-19/.
Reflection
Living on the small island of Jeju, the ocean of Jeju was one of my favorite things on the island. The distinct rocky, black coast, the astonishingly blue water, and the Haenyeos—the proud cultural heritage of Jeju island—have always given me pride in the fact that I am living on this island. One day, I got a chance to visit the Haenyeo Museum of Jeju, where I could experience the life of a Haenyeo and learn about their culture. The experience was rather devastating. I learned that behind the beautiful seawater, the Jeju Ocean was completely losing its liveliness—losing its seaweed, fish, and Haenyeos—its whole value. However, it is also where I heard the stories of Haenyeos trying to protect their ocean—especially about the young Haenyeos who started a YouTube channel advertising the beauty of Haenyeos and the Jeju ocean. It was perhaps the first time that I became truly aware of the serious problem of global warming. Our greed was destroying the ocean; it was taking away the home of Haenyeos. Now, I am sharing the story of Haenyeos in this contest. I hope that the readers also get to learn to not be tempted to take the Mulsum—the sudden greed that leads to the permanent destruction of our beautiful ocean—the eternal home of our hearts.